Weekend of ’spieling!

I had so much fun at this weekend’s PFRA Bonspiel that I just had to write about it! The PFRA (the branch of Ag Canada that I work for) hosts an annual tradition of bonspiel which is held at various towns or cities across the Prairies. This year was in Regina, and I had the pleasure of being part of the bonspiel organizing committee. It was, in my humble opinion, a huge success. We had an awesome turn out of 26 teams registered (mostly coworkers from all over the Prairies), plus guests for the Friday and Saturday night social. That’s over 104 people in attendance!!

Best thing about bonspieling (with PFRA) is that you get to dress in costume. In going with this year’s theme of “Deja View: you’s a has-been”, our team went as Elvi (plural form of Elvis). I tried to be in character throughout the Bonspiel, but I eventually ran out of steam by Saturday as I was suffering from a terrible hang over. Tim really enjoyed the event- he only fell over once and many thought he didn’t return the next day because of his injury (everyone was asking me where he was and if he was okay). In fact he wasn’t in costume Saturday so no one was able to recognize him

We ended the bonspiel with a delicious banquet meal at the Victoria Club, danced for a few tunes and mingled with coworkers. By the end of the night I was feeling abit sad…I’m really going to miss my coworkers and PFRA. I’m hoping Transport Canada will be just as fun; if not, I’m going to have to start a tradition of bonspieling for the department

(The Elvi- second runner up for most entertaining team

(Coworker in his Green Acres costume and his son Arnie)

Tim and coworker Erin sweeping HARD!!!

Coworkers in WKRP Cincinnati costume- first prize for Best Costume)

Couply shot of Tim and I at Saturday night’s banquet.

Some good news

I am happy to announce that I accepted a new job position as an Environmental Officer with Transport Canada…in Edmonton! This means being closer to family and old friends AND the Rockies!!!

This decision may sound like a no-brainer, but it was surprisingly tough to make. I’ve grown a rather close attachment to my coworkers and PFRA, especially when the whole of my career, up until now, has been with them (7 years!). From being a low-paid intern at the start of my career, they gave me the much needed support and career development opportunities that helped shape who I am today. I will forever be grateful.   

The other tough component of this decision was the change in career path. This new position involves the regimented work of ensuring that development projects are assessed on their potential environmental effects as directed by the federal legislation- the Canadian Environmental Assessment Act. Less in the field of applied research than what I am used to. But after a few sleepless nights thinking about it, the employment prospects in environmental assessment and regulation are growing and will continue to be in high demand. The applied research field that I am in now is limited in employability, and I eventually would have to advance to a Master’s degree to specialise in a research field in order to advance my career.

So I decided that I wanted it all and found a way how to potentially get it all- i.e. move to Edmonton, get a Master’s degree (distance degree from the UK with a dissertation/research project), be close to family, and perhaps when  the time is right, start my own family. I got a few busy years ahead of me now! 

I’m so very excited to start this new career path and new life in Edmonton- although it feels more like a merge of the old (reconnecting with family and old friends) and the new. I haven’t been back since I graduated in 2001! Of course what could make life more complete than to have a loving partner to share it with? Tim will be joining me too! His company (Squareflo) has agreed to still keep him on and have him work remotely. Awesome! 

Just so you are aware, getting the Transport Canada job wasn’t a shoe-in: the recruitment process took approximately 4 months to complete, from the time I took that 3 hour exam in October to enduring a 3 hour-long interview (including a writing component) in late November. But I managed to pull through and impress them in the interview (so I was told). Anyway, point being- even though you are in the federal public service, you have to study and work just as in hard getting a federal job than any other person! 

This month will be busy, busy, busy- with my move and arranging for a new place to stay (hoping for an apartment downtown so I can bike to work). I am also currently taking French training and so have been spending alot of my evenings and weekends studying. I’m sad to leave my language course unfinished (ends April 1st) especially when I worked so hard to get departmental funding for it! Oh well, hopefully I can continue my French learning in Edmonton. 

à la prochaine/Until next time!

Last entry for Everest (finally!)

It has taken me a year, but I’ve finally finished it! Yay!

October 17, 2007 Thukla- Lobuche- Gorak Shep (4600-5170m, 570m elevation gain)

I woken up a few times last night by other trekkers coughing their Khumbu cough (walls were thin plywood, non-insulated). I thought I heard a woman sobbing but it just turned out she was coughing all night. I felt terrible for her; she still had a ways to go yet.

Met a nice English bloke Alex at breakfast today. He’s hiking solo, which I think is doable; however he says he takes off less popular side trails which I don’t think is very smart unless you have a guide with you. He’s gotten lost a few times already. He’s a military hopeful so I guess loves the physical and mental challenge of it all. He’s a fairly regimented guy; I could see him in the military- he’s definitely got the haircut anyway. 

After a long trudging hike, we made it to Gorak Shep in under 3.25hours. After Thukla, you ascend quite sharply up a “hill”- at the top there are a few memorials for Sherpas and foreigners that died attempting to climb Everest.

A few notes: Don’t stay at Loboche, it’s a dump; if you can push on to Gorak Shep. Loboche had piles of rubbish about, old equipment…just generally unmanaged and ill-kept. There wasn’t much for scenery either.

After Loboche my breathing became quite stable- it was just my legs- they didn’t seem to want to move, as if they weren’t in existence. Not enough oxygen to get the muscles going I guess. Couldn’t complain about the weather though, it was bright and sunny all day. Combined with last night’s snow fall, it was extra bright out. 

The trail from Loboche to Gorak Shep was along the moraine/glacial scour and so there was crest after crest to climb- so the hike seems abit relentless and demoralising. I started to think that we’d never reach around the corner to see Everest and Gorak Shep. 

I could tell we reached Gorak Shep because Tim (who was hiking in front of me) turn around with a big gaping smile. Too funny. He didn’t have to say anything- I returned the smile ‘cause I knew after how many days of trekking, we FINALLY made it to the “end” of the trail”.  

We are staying at the Snowland Highest Inn for 200Rs for a room with two single beds. The toilets are clean and the common room/lodge is warm and heated. We’ll be spending the next 3 nights here (tomorrow is the climb up Kala Pattar, and day after is to Everest Base Camp). We want to increase our chances of getting beautiful weather for our summit up Kala Pattar and get clear views of Everest. Apparently it’s often hidden in clouds. 

We found Alex, the English bloke we met at breakfast today. He’s staying at a basic porter’s lodge next to ours. It’s dark (no windows) and smelly (from porters), with really poor lighting. It was a bit morbid inside- no one talking just huddling close to the dung burner stove. Alex said his dinner of dal bhaat was watery and flavourless, and left him still hungry. Well if he’s going to enlist in the military he better get used to bad food. 

I however, don’t plan to go into the military and demand a decent meal. The meal proportions at our lodge were minute! I was still hungry after our meal. Many of the other trekkers had multiple orders which made me really jealous (and hungry). I made myself believe I had to limit food intake not because we were on a strict budget, but simply because I was dieting…on my way to Everest. Gawd, can’t wait to binge when we get back to Kathmandu!!! To give you an idea, a piece of toast costs an equivalent of 1USD; it may not seem much but for 1USD, it can get you full entree back in Kathmandu. LOL- when did I become so cheap??

(on our way to Gorak Shep)

(Gorak Shep! And Nupse and Everest- Everest is behind Nupse wih the snow blowing off the peak)

October 18, 2007 Gorak Shep- Kala Pattar (5170-5554m, 384m elevation gain)

We saw Alex in our lodge’s common room this morning- no one was awake to cook breakfast in his lodge (including heating the dung stove). Poor guy.  

The three of us originally planned on hiking up to Kala Pattar together, but Alex changed his mind and decided not to stay in Gorak Shep any longer than he had to (don’t blame him; he’s staying at an aweful dingy place). So he’s going to Everest Base Camp and heading back down to Dingboche in a day. 

Tim and I originally planned on hiking up to Pulmo-ri base camp/Two Glaciers today to get a better view of Everest; and then up Kala Pattar if we had any energy left. According to our guide book, Pulmo-ri is supposed to provide better views of Everest (and be less crowded too).    

Unfortunately our semi-scramble left us breathless and tired; we ended up scrambling the other side of Kala Patter rather than Pulmo-ri. Oh well. The peak wasn’t too crowded and we enjoyed the view of Everest Base Camp from there. It was sunny and cloudless so the photo taking was optimal. Unfortunately all my shots seemed overexposed from all the snow ;-( Arg!

Okay, I’m starting to get bored in the evenings. Perhaps it’s a good thing we’re close to ending our trek. I’ve finished the TWO novels we brought, I really have not much to say in my journal any more (lack of interest in writing) and I solved the hardest ever Suduko puzzle. 

(My attempt to piece multiple photos together with Photoshop. Needs work but you get the idea)

(Reflection of Everest and Nupse off of Tim’s sunnies)

(Tim and I at Gorak Shep)

(On our scramble to find Pulmo-Ri, but it just ended up being a longer way up to Kala Pattar)

(a nice visitor on Kala Pattar)

(Couple shot!)

 

October 19, 2007 – Gorak Shep to Everest Base Camp- Pheriche

Everest Bast Camp. You have to do it- the hike is really scenic! Again a really nice sunny day with beautiful views of Everest. Had a terrible headache on the ascent to base camp which followed me all the way to Pheriche. 

If you ever stay in Pheriche, stay at the “Mountain guide’s lodge and restaurant”. The food proportions were substantial! They actually filled the whole plate up! 

(enroute to Everest Base Camp)

(Hiking along the glacial moraine)

(Voila, Everest Base Camp- Thai Expedition team was there to climb Everest. Unfortunately they weren’t successful.)

(A closer view of Everest Base Camp, Khumbu glacier and the south col of Everest)

 

October 20-22, 2007 (Pheriche to Namche; Namche to Lukla)

So out of boredom in our afternoons/evenings, we’ve decided to descend back to Namche as quickly as possible and skip Gokyo and Gokyo-ri. We aren’t too crushed about it; I’m sure the views from Gokyo are spectacular, but we’re running out of steam and enthusiasm. After 14days of trekking and achieving out ultimate goal of seeing Everest and base camp…we’re pretty content. We’re both really excited to return to Kathmandu and gorge on some German bakery! Yay!

The last hour and half trekking to Lukla was absolute torture. My achilles tendon on my right leg was hurting and so it was very painful to do any decent or walking for that matter. BTW- Lukla is a dump- recommend not to stay there if possible. 

Mr. Gorka from Gorka Airlines owns the Himalayan Lodge next to the airport. so we stayed there. Get this- we were asking for a flight itinerary so he gave it to us verbally after dinner. 

Lukla airport is utter chaos and has a real short landing strip- comedy! Well not so funny if you’re the person on the plane. I could see how Sir Edmund Hillary regrets building this airport; the tourist traffic is horrendous. One tour group after another boarding and unboarding the aircrafts. 

Arrived in Kathmandu- had a wonderful shower. My hair just feels fantastic! Splurged on a nice dinner at a place called “Feed and Read”- a bookstore/restaurant. It was candlelit and they even had Indian performers playing tobla and suitar during the meal. We even splurged on some German bakery. Well-deserved. 

Note: Timmy loves his ketchup- he can’t get enough of it!

(Himalayan Thar on our decent to Namche)

(Lukla airport)

(Tim outside the German Bakery in Kathmandu)

(Our custom embroidered Everest Base Camp tee shirts)

(Tim’s Everest beard- 17 days of facial hair growth, LOL!)

Mount Edith Cavell Snowshoe Trek Dec 27-29

Location: Mount Edith Cavell, Jasper National Park

Distance: 12km

Description: A snowshoe trek up to Mount Edith Cavell hostel along a summer road. Gradual upslope; commonly done with cross-country skis. Day trip to Angel Glacier recommended (~5km return from hostel).

Together with some great friends, Tim and I ventured on a snowshoe trek up to Mount Edith Cavell hostel after Christmas to shake off those extra pounds gained from the holidays. The road up to the hostel and Angel Glacier is closed during winter and only accessible by snowshoes or skis. It’s a beautiful hike in the snow topped forest; and the valley is incredibly silent. Everything just feels so dormant; if I were a bear, I’d sleep throughout the winter too! All that was heard was the crunch of the snow underneath your snowshoes and the your laboured breathing from the hike.

Luckily the weather warmed up just in time for our trek- with temperatures ranging from about minus 5 to 15 degrees C during the day. Because it was warmer, we were able to take rest stops when needed. If it was any colder, you really wouldn’t want to stop to even pee! So yes, there were no catastrophes and no frostbitten extremities. The only thing we suffered from was sore achy muscles.

I helped organize the group meals and surprisingly portioned enough food for the six of us. Take a look at the menu I drafted menu. I highly recommend chili and beef barley soup for a winter trek- so hearty and filling, but most of all, fairly cheap to make! 

Anyway, here are some photos taken of our trek. I highly recommend it, particularly for first time winter trekkers/snowshoers/skiers. It’s fairly short and there’s a rustic cabin at the end of the trail to warm up and recoup, so there are no worries of freezing during the night. All my friends I went with said that they’d do it again, it was THAT much fun! Next year, I’m going to try and convince Tim to ski into an alpine hut with me but he’ll have to train quite a bit this winter though  

Happy New Year everyone!

(Left to Right: Me, Tim, Sarah, Mike, Craig and Jenny)

(Tim, the cool trekker)

(Cozying up in the cabin)

(On a day trip to Angel Glacier)

A white Christmas from coast to coast

According to Environment Canada, it’s been 40 years since we’ve had a white Christmas across the country! We’ve suffered a 2 week long deep freeze in the Prairies; with temperatures dipping below 40C during the day (windchill included). Tim was astonished to hear that it was colder in Regina than at the North Pole.

Both the eastern and western coasts were hit hard with snow storms; and Ontarians and Quebecers also have experienced a dose of that fluffy white stuff. Of course it doesn’t sound all so pretty when 300 plus flights have been cancelled or delayed at the Toronto Pearson and Vancouver Airports for the holidays!

Luckily my sister who was traveling home from Vietnam was able to catch a flight, after having to wait in Vancouver for 24 hours. She was given an emergency foil blanket and a 1-800 number from Air Canada for her worries. She said it was a bit of a nightmare having seen so many people in the departure lounge curled under their foil tents on the floor. Some were hysterical and yelling at flight attendants. And of course there were some crying because they couldn’t make it home in time for Christmas.

Luckily our 7.5hour drive from Regina to Edmonton was problem-free; the roads were dry and clear of ice and snow and the windchill warning ended in time for Christmas. Tim and I spent Christmas Eve at Good Buddy Restaurant eating hot pot with my father’s business partners and Good Buddy employees (my father is a co-partner in the 3 Good Buddy restaurants/mall kiosks in Edmonton). It was a tasty dinner, although my father being frugal as he is, kept pushing us to “eat more” particularly the oysters.

(Tim not looking so keen on having to sit next to my dad)

(Nieces Kyana and Kayla and my sister Tuyet)

Christmas day went fairly smoothly. Kids were happy with their gifts and we were all fed really well (traditional turkey dinner). Christmas was graciously hosted by my brother and his wife. Happy holidays everyone and Merry Christmas to all from the Huynh Family!!

Happy Halloween!!

Celebrating Tim’s first Halloween- what fun it is to dress up! I dressed as a vampirish geisha; but unfortunately my fangs didn’t fit. Tim showed his creativity by dressing as a zombie rugby player. 

While Tim attended a pub crawl with his coworkers last night, I went to a live play of the Rocky Horror Show with some friends- and what a blast that was! A bizarre story of a transvesite bisexual from the planet Transalvaina- the stage rocked out with a live band, great choreographed dances and of course, gorgeous transexuals/drag queens and bizzarely dressed audience members. The audience got well into the play too- standing up and dancing, shouting and wolf whistling at the actors/actresses.

Tonight, we go out (again) dressed in costume to a coworker’s halloween house party- woohoo! Happy halloween everybody and party safe!

Brazeau Loop Trek, Jasper National Park

Location: Banff & Jasper National Park

Trail name: Brazeau Loop, trail map

Distance: 82km

Days: 4 nights, 5 days

Although commonly hiked in a clockwise fashion, we went against the grain and trekked the loop counterclockwise. The start/end of the loop is at Four point campground, and from there you can choose to either climb up Jonas Pass to Jonas Cut-off campsite (19km) or take a walk in the lodgepole pine forest along the Brazeau River to Brazeau Lake (18.5km). We choose Brazeau Lake first as I thought our packs would be lighter and thus easier to carry after Day 2 for the climb up to Pobokton and Jonas Passes.  

The trailhead starts at the Nigel Pass trailhead car park (Banff National Park) a few kilometers south of the Columbian Icefields Centre. From there it’s a 14km hike to Four Point campground (4.5hours). At Nigel Pass or after fyording a small trib of Brazeau River and climbing up the other side of the valley, you can get some really nice views of the Columbia Icefields.

(Me and a beautiful view of Nigel Pass and the Columbia Icefields behind me)

(Tim’s quote “main reason why he enjoys trekking”…for the love of trail mix! LOL!)

After crossing Nigel Pass and the small trib, it’s about another 5km to four point campground. 

(The Brazeau River enroute to Four Point campground)

The hike to Brazeau Lake is a nice 18.5km forested walk with very little elevation gain. We saw alot of bear scat and diggings, but no bears unfortunately. The weather wasn’t the best for trekking either- just rain and more rain.

After Brazeau Lake you start climbing up Pobokton Pass (16km to Jonas Cut-off) but must first cross John-John Creek. Unfortunately the bridge was “washed out” and Tim and I spent a good 30min looking for a safe place to cross the rapids. Luckily, we found this washed out bridge wedged inbetween some rocks and deadfall 100m downstream from the trail and used that to safely cross.

(Tim and Pobokton Pass)

(Tim getting pelted with hail and frowning. Enroute to Jonas Cut-off via Poboktan Pass)

 

(On our way down to Jonas Cut-off campground)

(Fireweed)

After Jonas Cut-off, the trail takes you up a valley and over Jonas’ Shoulder onto Jonas Pass. It’s 19km to Four point from the Jonas Cut-off campground. Again, not the greatest weather for viewing.

 

(Trail up to Jonas’ shoulder @ 2509m)

(View of Sunwapta Peak from Jonas’ Shoulder)

(Couply shot of Tim and I at Jonas’ Shoulder)

(Tim and Jonas Pass)

(Jonas Pass)

On our way down Jonas Pass, we encountered a trio of well experienced trekkers taking shelter under a well constructed tarp and having tea/lunch. Despite the sopping rain, they seemed to be really enjoying themselves. They invited us for afternoon tea- a nice welcome from the down pour. Thanks Ben, Jen and Bill for the laughs and tea! 

As an aside, I perused the Mountain Equipment Co-op website and came across an awesome light weight tarp design by MSR, weighing only 670g- this will definitely be my next purchase! Check it out the specs here.

Well, despite the rain, hail, sleet and snow (and crazy thunderstorm on the 4th night), I really enjoyed the trek. Having done this trail 5 years ago, I definitely am in much better shape now! The second last day was horrid with rain, and poor Tim’s boots were soaking wet. The temperature went below freezing that night and so the morning after wasn’t very pleasant for him. We quickly packed the frozen tent, put on cold boots and pretty much ran back to the car park!

My best friend’s an Ironwoman!

I’ve recently returned from a 10 day vacation in Penticton (BC) and the Rockies. Although the weather could’ve been better, I thoroughly enjoyed the time off (esp. spending great quality time with my darling Tim!).

The initial part of the vacation was spent driving 1400km to Penticton to cheer on my best friend Jenny and her boyfriend Mike in the Ironman race. The Ironman consists of a 4km swim and 180km bike. And if that’s not enough, you have to run a full marathon after that. It looked absolutely torturous (some puked) but for a good few, it looked like alot of fun. I would love to compete in an Ironman ONE day; and Tim’s promised to race with me before we reach the age of 50 (I’m holding you to that promise Tim!). 

Jenny and Mike did impressively well- finishing in ~12:37 and 11:50 hours respectively. Congrats to you both!

Approx. 2200 Ironmen anxiously waiting for the race to start.

Jenny and Mike in a good luck embrace.

Some awesome shots of professional Ironman competitors. 

Therapy winery at Naramata Bench. Tim and I took a “break” from spectating and sampled wine at 6 different wineries. We lllllove wine! So much that we took home 6 bottles of it. 

  

Jenny and Mike looking their best. Congrats on a job well done!

Everest base camp journal cont’d- Oct 14-16, 2007

October 14, 2007 Tengboche to Dingboche (3860-4350m, 490m elevation gain)

It was a good and bad day today. Good because the fog and clouds lifted as we ascended further up the valley…finally giving us a clear view of Everest, Ana Dablam and Nupse. 

But it was also a bad day because Tim has caught a nasty case of the flu/cold (and possibly altitude sickness)- he’s got symptoms of a stuffy and runny nose, sneezing, shortness of breath, headache and general “awfulness”. He had a real hard time ascending up to Dingboche and so had to take many rest stops. But slowly and patiently we made it there in fairly good time (3.5hours). I had a hard time breathing as well; I can’t imagine what it would be like to have a cold on top of Altitude Mountain Sickness. Luckily we have an acclimatization day tomorrow so Tim will have a full day to rest. 

(Tim not feeling too well enroute to Dingboche)

(Encountered many yaks along the trail. You really don’t want to get bumped off the trail by these big beasts.)

We’re staying at a strangely named lodge called Hotel Ari-zona. The family that owns the place is really friendly and the lodge has a nice solarium upstairs, which is nicely toasty warm from the sun- a perfect place for Tim to rest and recoup. The solarium also offers awesome views of the surrounding mountains (and unlimited view of Ana Dablam). It will certainly provide some inspiration for me to do some sketches tomorrow! 

(Some of the family members living in and managing Hotel Ari-Zona)

We’re paying an excellent price for our accommodations- only 100Rs for a room (two single beds obviously)/night. The meals are getting pricier though…the sherpa stew that I had for lunch was 170Rs, which would usually go for 100Rs south of Namche. I guess we’re paying “porter” tax for having our food carries all this way.  

It’s now evening and I’m developing a headache now. Doesn’t help that I’m peeing buckets too (but it’s a good sign that your body is acclimatizing). 

I walked around Dingboche this afternoon while Tim rested and slept. It’s a nice village- but now and then you get these gawd-aweful looking new lodges placed inbetween shacks or farmsteads with corrals. The village is quite nice despite some of these lodges; it’s very open and provides awesome views of the mountainscape. 

(Dingboche and yak corrals)

(Harvesting crop in Dingboche)

(Shaping stone by hand; extremely laborious)

Pheriche, a village in the next valley over, is an alternative stop over to Dingboche but it’s in a narrow valley that doesn’t get much sun and doesn’t provide as good of views compared to Dingboche. I’m glad we chose to stay here (it was a toss between Pheriche and Dingboche when we came to the fork in the trail). 

I was also on a mission this afternoon to find a water source (stream) to wash my socks and undies. While on my walk I befriended a young Nepali man Karma, a 16 year old friendly chap who was looking for some company. He was a guide/porter to an “old” European lady and he said she didn’t talk much and was really boring to hang out with. Of course he thougth I was Nepali and was intrigued by the fact I was Canadian. So we had a good walk and chat at the stream while I washed my undies in front of him- I was a bit embarrassed to show him my underwear but whatever.

October 15, 2007- acclimatization day at Dingboche

We had a “lie-in” this morning as Tim would say. Translated in Canadian means that we slept in and slowly got up at 8am. Every lodger was in the solarium already eating breakfast. I woke up twice in the middle of the night to run to the outhouse for really long pees- still acclimatizing, even when I sleep! 

We had a wonderful breakfast of champa and rice porridge (the cook even gave us extra free helpings because she cooked too much). Tim was feeling abit better today and so we decided to test his strength by heading out for a short walk. We walked part way up the ridge and took photographs of some fantastic scenery. 

(Tim and Dingboche village)

(Stupa overlooking Dingboche)

(Nicely hung Tibetan prayer flags)

After a few attempts of sketching mountains using my fancy Staedtler sketching pens, I managed to sketch a decent drawing of Ana Dablam. I gave the sketch to Tim to cheer him up. 

 

October 16, 2007 Dingboche to Thukla (4350-4600m, 250m elevation gain)

Tim was feeling well enough to push on to Thukla (also spelled Dughla) today. A very short day of 2.5hours of trekking. Tim did very well despite his shortness of breath on the uphills. 

(Tim and Ana Dablam in the background)

(Me enroute to Dughla)

(Shepherd’s lodge enroute to Thukla)

Thukla is nothing more than a teahouse/lodge in the middle of seemingly nowhere (there’s only one decent place to stay- the Yak Lodge, the other two are porter/tea lodges). Most trekkers often decide to push onto Lobuche, which we could have done if Tim was feeling better. But it was a good thing we did stop when we did because two hours later it started to heavily snow at around 2pm. Many trekkers started to pile into the lodge looking for shelter and many said they found the trail very slippery to walk on. The sky cleared by 6pm and made for some nice photoshoots. 

(Thukla covered in snow)

 

(Freshly fallen snow)

I finished Sir Edmund Hillary’s memoir “View from the Summit” this afternoon. I couldn’t help but cry when I read about his wife and daughter’s deaths (devastating plane crash). Tim was poking fun of my sensitivity but I assured him that he will be crying too when he reads the book. 

Tim spent a ridiculous 4 hours tinkering away at his camera which attracted alot of Sherpas’ attention- they just stood around and watched him surgically gut his camera. Tim surprisingly managed to piece it back together with some “spare” parts left over. LOL. Unfortunately the shutter was still broken.

Tommorow we’ll be pushing on to Gorak Shep (~500m elevation gain, despite the acclimatization guidelines). We’ll play it by ear but I’m sure we’ll be able to push past Loboche as Tim’s feeling alot better now. 

Notes: 

-The owner/manager’s little son has a Himalayan pup, which mostly stays in the kitchen. If we were in any other place than the middle of nowhere Nepal, it would have been unacceptably unsanitary. But I enjoyed the pup’s behavior, watching it zip in and out of the kitchen into the lounge/common area, only to be chased back into the kitchen by the shouting owner/manager. 

-Had some awesome dal bhaat today with Nepali chili (had to specially request it). They even gave us a round of seconds (which is how it is traditionally served). 

Everest base camp journal cont’d- Oct 13, 2007

October 13, 2007 Namche to Tengboche (3450-3860m, 410m elevation gain)

Right at the start of the trail, we met two friendly 19yr old Nepali chaps. They were from Katmandu and were trekking to Gokyo- a scenic trail that provides a panoramic view of Everest from Gokyo Ri (peak). They estimated 2 days to get there…with no acclimatization stops obviously. If we have enough energy left after base camp, Tim and I should definitely consider going back via Gokyo; I’ve heard nothing but good things about it (less traveled and very scenic).

Hiking after a day of rest proved to be extremely difficult- I had a real hard time catching my breath for some reason. The Nepali guys were probably thinking that I was in the worst shape ever! I was abit embarrassed about my condition, however after an hour or so (when we parted ways with the Nepali guys) I started to get into the groove of climbing and breathing more regularly. 

But before we parted ways, I was strangely asked by one of the Nepali guys if Tim and I slept in the same room…and in the same bed. I found the question abit unconventional and forthright…so I answered “Yes, but we only touch.” Just joking. I answered honestly- that we did share the same room and often share the same bed (but only if it’s a double). If it was a Westerner asking, I probably would have told him/her to stuff it. But this Nepali was just really intrigued about western culture and of course its views on sexual liberalism ;-P  

We also befriended an Austrian fellow with a massive pack. I couldn’t help but talk to him and ask what his plans were for that pack. Turns out he’s a guide for Austrian trekkers and was on “vacation”. On this “vacation”, he trekked the Tibetan side of Everest and now he is on his way to see the Nepali (south) side of Everest. Crazy. His pack (which looked extremely heavy) was full of his photography and camping gear. His group of Austrian tourists are set to arrive in a week in Lukla and so he was quite determined to get some good photographs of Everest from Kala Pattar (Everest viewpoint- where we’re heading) before guiding. He’ll probably be able to make it considering he’s already acclimatized.   

It took us a total of 3 hours to reach Tengboche- the initial climb wasn’t so bad but then the trail took you to a river crossing…which meant a steep trek down to the Dudh Kosi river (ugh, all that hard work!) and then straight back up again to Tengboche. You could actually see Tengboche on top of the hill from the river crossing, which was pretty cool aside from the fact that you had to hike up to get to it. 

(Enroute to Tengboche and still in the clouds)

We were delightfully greeted at the entrance of the village by prayer flags and a stupa. I had enough energy to have gone further but it was probably wise to stick to the acclimatization guidelines (300m/day when over 3500m) and rest. Tim and I are now showing subtle signs of altitude sickness- we’ve both got the classic runny nose that the Nepali/Sherpas seem to all have here. Tim’s developing a slight cough too- a Khumbu cough as it’s called (Khumbu is the region of Nepal we’re in); and I’m urinating alot. Best to hydrate so I don’t develop a massive headache in the morning.  

(Arriving at Tengboche)

We’re staying at a lodge called Tashi Delek and paying 200Rs for a room with two single beds ($3.30CAD). Seems luxurious but really, the room is probably as small as my bathroom. It’s no Sealy Posturepedic mattress either. 

One of today’s highlights was that we saw, out of the small side window on the second floor of the lodge, our very FIRST view of Everest (well, glimpse anyway as it was still fairly cloudy). We were really excited seeing it for the first time!

The owner/manger of the lodge looks like Mr. Miyagi from the movie “Karate Kid”. Nice guy. Comfortable lodge and common room; they even heated the eating area/common room this afternoon and evening, which pleased us both (considering we were freezing for two nights at our cheapo lodge in Namche). 

We entertained ourselves for a while by reading the “rules” of the lodge which was posted on the wall in the common room. These types of rules I reckon will be standard for all lodges we’ll be staying in from hereon in. Of course the Number 1 Rule of staying in a trekker’s lodge is to “not eat any where else…or face the consequence”. Usually the “consequence” means charging double your accommodation fee (which isn’t much considering it’s an equivalent to $3.30CAD), but this lodge slaps you a “1000Rs FINE”. A FINE!?! Has it been passed by local government and made into a by-law?! LOL.  

We took our chances anyway and sneaked off to the German bakery located across an open field; however sneakily you can walk across an open field. Tim was convinced that we were being watched by the evil eye of  Mr. Miyagi! The German bakery is abit disappointing despite how yummy it really looked. Not sure if the altitude had anything to do with it but the bakery was really dry and stale. The food however looks awesome, unfortunately we already had our lunch at Mr. Miyagi’s.

(German bakery with the green roof top, across the field)

(enjoying a not-so-satisfying chocolate bun)

Later that evening, we had a good laugh over a German couple who brought back bakery to the lodge and ate it openly in front of Mr. Miyagi (surprisingly he brought them plates)! What, no fine?? If my dad were manager/owner, he would have slapped that 1000Rs fine right then and there! 

Tengboche is regarded as a cultural and religious center for the people in the Khumbu region- main reason being that the newly constructed gompa is a famous setting of the Mani Rimdu dance festival in late Oct-early November (according to Jamie McGuinness’s Guide to Trekking the Everest Region). We didn’t see no dance festival unfortunately, only foreign trekkers dancing about the dung stove trying to warm up. The Tengboche gompa is impressively new, reconstructed from a disastrous fire in 1989, and was rebuilt and funded by the Himalayan foundation- Sir Ed Hillary himself help build it which I though was really cool! 

(Tengboche monastery)

Being that the gompa is a spiritual place, there’s a visitor’s centre that provides a good explanation of the gompa and the Khumbu region so that tourists don’t go poking about and disturb prayer, study and meditation. I recommend visiting the centre- it’s well worth your time.